Monday, May 16, 2011

I'm Chinese! ...wait, no, I'm not

Just when I think I'm Chinese, I realize I don't quite make the cut.

Just the other day, I told my roommate that I had adopted the Chinese custom of washing my feet before I go to bed. And not just before I go to bed, but basically every time I step into the house. My feet get so dirty from walking around, and as soon as I step inside, I take my shoes off. The last thing I want to do is trek dirt around on the floor, so I promptly head to the shower and rinse my soles off. I've gotten to the point where I don't quite feel right or complete without clean feet. It's such a refreshing feeling. Certainly, this foot washing thing is Chinese, right? I mean, I've seen it in movies, and my ai-yi (or Chinese aunt who lives next door) tells me to wash my feet at night. So now that I do, that must mean I'm Chinese.

However, when I told my roommate in satisfaction of my new conformity, she replied that people who wash their feet are usually the people who don't take showers. Something to do with Chinese medicine -- the foot is connected to every part of your body, like, your big toe is connected to your shoulder maybe and the arch is connected to your digestive system. If your feet are good and clean, then the rest of you is too. Furthermore, it's only Northern Chinese who really actually wash their feet before bed.

Doh! Well, that stopped my feeling especially culturally aware and open. I guess I'm still just not quite there yet. And maybe I don't want to be. I'd rather keep my showers. I'll keep the foot washing for good measure anyway, though.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Playing Catch-up

Ah, so I'm an epic fail at blogging my experiences. This could potentially be a very bad sign for an aspiring journalist in this modern, tech-savvy world...hm, there are always second chances, though, right?

Anyway, let's play a little catch up.

I have now been in Nanjing, China for about 3 months. I've gotten to see quite a bit of history. As legend (and wikipedia) has it, Nanjing was founded in 495 BC by Fu Chai, the lord of the State of Wu. Since, then, its been carried though history as the capital to nine dynasties, as well as the Tai Ping government and Sun Yat-sen's Republic of China. It's been witness to tragedy as well as great wealth. When the Taiping government ruled in the mid-1800s, a general from the previous Qing dynasty retook the city in 1864 causing at least 100,000 to either die in the ensuing fighting or commit suicide. In late 1937, the Japanese army invaded and conquered the city. For 6 weeks, the Japanese army reigned absolute terror on the city in what would later be known as "The Rape of Nanjing." During this time, the Japanese army killed anywhere from 200 - 300,000 people (according to various estimates) and tortured and raped thousands more.

In Chinese, the word used for the Nanjing Massacre is the same word used for the Jewish Holocaust - and with good reason. Several weeks ago, my media class did a section on two films that covered the Nanjing Massacre. One is called "Don't Cry, Nanjing," and the other is simply "Nanjing, Nanjing." I had heard of the Rape of Nanjing, but I never had known the extent of the brutality and evil that existed during that time. The Japanese easily defeated the Chinese at Nanjing. Despite their victory, the Japanese proceeded to invade and loot the city; the Japanese Army also had been told they could kill all captives. Many civilians were left to the (lack of) mercy of the soldiers. Soon after the Japanese took the city, many Westerners set up a safety zone for civilians. In the weeks that ensued, though, even the safety zone was not safe. In addition to the at least 200,000 people who were murdered after the Japanese defeated Nanjing, at least 20,000 women were raped and usually mutilated, including young children and elderly women. 20,000! In the 42 days that the Japanese occupied Nanjing, that means that 472 women were raped daily. Oftentimes, one women (or girl) was raped multiple times. I do not want to quote the diaries kept during that time by several of the Western missionaries and businessmen who stayed behind to help. They are so graphic and disturbing. But people like John Rabe, Minnie Vautrin and John Magee witnessed it with their own eyes, yet were able to shelter and save thousands of lives.

After watching the films, I could not sleep. I rarely have trouble sleeping. I stayed up thinking about the terrible atrocities, all the pain, all the evil. I think I understand how so many Chinese hate the Japanese.

Hate is a powerful word, and I do not use it often. But I'm afraid it might be fitting here - for at least the particular individuals who committed these sins, for the people who did not stop them, for the system that allowed it. It is truly terrible. And to think, there are still individuals alive who lived in Nanjing at the time. It gives another depth to this city that I'm in right now, although it's hard to see it now, with the subway lines and highrise buildings.